Every NGO claims to be apolitical. In fact, I’m quite sure the government, like the US, requires all registered NGOs to be that way. However many NGOs working for social change here are easily politicized, and thus it’s crucial to understand the state of politics in Nicaragua today to really understand the positions of social change NGOs in a highly partisan nation. (One interesting question that I’ll save for another time: should NGOs be allowed to be politicized, and if so, how much, and in what way?)
To immerse myself in the politics and absorb some of the feelings of the people, I speak to everyone and anyone I can, including my host family, friends, taxi drivers, peasants, hair stylists, and NGO directors about politics, as well as watch, read, and discuss the news with locals, and lastly go to events like the 30th Anniversary of the Sandinista Revolution this past Sunday, July 19th.

"El Guerrillero" - Statue nearby the Plaza de la Fe and the Plaza de la Revolución. The plaque at the bottom reads: "Only the workers and peasants will go to the end. - Augusto C. Sandino."
This festive, illegally inebriated celebration was held in the Plaza de la Fe in Managua. (It was fueled – blatantly against government probition of alchohol – by plastic bottles of Rum Plata “Gold Rum” sold every ten feet – an extra strength rum for “los hombres, muy hombres” – lit. “the men, very men” or “manly men.”) It was hosted by President Daniel Ortega and FSLN, the Frente Sandinista para Liberación Nacional or National Sandinista Liberation Front (the same party – some would argue with a different, more elitist vision – that organized the revolution and governed from 1979-1990). The celebration aimed to commemorate the 30th anniverasary of el Triunfo or the Triumph over Somoza by the Sandinista rebels. But it also served as a highly effective propaganda platform, and for me, a very interesting way to see the spirit and makeup of the FSLN party today, not to mention a very fun photo op. I’ll explain a bit more about FSLN in a bit, but in the meantime, let’s look at an example of partisan NGOs. I hope the pictures on the right will give a bit of a sense of the country’s political mentality and spirit while you read.
PARTISAN NGOs: In the light of the claim to be apolitical, it’s curious that the human rights NGO I interviewed today, Centro Permanente de Derechos Humanos (CPDH – Permanent Center for Human Rights), which both assists with prosecution of human rights abuses and human rights education, claims that the other major human rights NGO in Nicaragua, Centro Nicaragüense de Derechos Humanos (CENIDH – Nicaraguan Center of Human Rights) is Sandinista, but that they themselves are totally apolitical and impartial.
Of course they are.
Their projects for 2008 were entirely funded by USAID primarily, and two other US government-funded groups, including the International Republican Institute (!). Keep in mind that USAID clearly states that their objective of “furthering America’s foreign policy interests in expanding democracy and free markets while improving the lives of the citizens of the developing world” (emphasis added). They were also primarily funded by the US government throughout the 1980s, during the Contra War; a proxy war against the US government. They also were still publishing bulletins about human rights abuses of the Sandinista army during the 1980s as of 2006. I do not think they were making up the stories by any means. Exaggerating and over-dramatizing? Surely. Their bulletins literally read and looked like tabloids. The thing that is wrong with this picture is that they seem to have ignored entirely the abuses of the Contras (the counter-revolutionary, counter-Sandinista government forces illegally funded, trained, and armed almost exclusively by the US government under Ronald Reagan), which are well documented and, at least by Walker’s account, greater than those of the Sandinista army.

A group of Sandinista youth were extremely excited to pose for the camera.
They also were very, very proud to quote that during the period from 1979-1990 (the Sandinistas) they recieved 25,000 denuncias or condemnations of human rights violations, but only 2000 during the period from 1977-1979 (from their founding to the revolution) under the Somoza dictatorship, and only 600 from 1990-1996 under the neoliberal governments of Violetta Chamorro and Arnoldo Alemán. At the time I took it at face value, nodding my head when they implied that the Sandanistas were baby-eating genocidal monsters (they didn’t say this exactly). But later I realized that a) the time periods are not equal, so you need to find the rate of condemnations, which means that Somoza and the Sandinistas were nearly equal at about 2000/yr and b) during the 1980s the country was AT WAR. That doesn’t really bode so well for human rights, ever. As Walker notes, even Great Britain has restricted civil liberties and I’d bet nearly alldeveloped countries (Gitmo!) have been accused of many human rights abuses in wartime (WWII). This was so blatantly biased and incorrect that I am now a bit shocked.

Focusing in on one black and red FSLN flag in a sea of thousands
Now it seems pretty clear, from both their defensiveness when asked about their funding sources, their actual funding sources, and their tabloid-like publications, that they do lean towards the political right, opposite of the direction they claim their competition, CENIDH leans. I’m not sure it’s possible to make any social change organization impartial, and as such, it seems rather appropriate that, like two competing newspapers, CENIDH and CPDH have two different interpretations of “human rights” in light of their political tendencies. To be fair, both organizations seem to denounce both political sides – it’s not as though they are even close to blatant political pawns, but they surely tend to denounce their own side less. Luckily, much of the work of both NGOs is focused on denuncias against intrafamiliar violence, malpractice, police brutality and prison conditions, etc – thingsthat is practically apolitical by nature.

This chavala (girl) insisted that I take another picture of just Che.
The status quo of Sandinismo and Danielismo: The current FSLN government, headed by President Daniel Ortega, is widely panned as a “soft dictatorship” full of “populism,” partisanship, corruption, and a lack of real overall economic and social progress. Ortega is also criticized heavily for the hypocrisy of his administration’s propaganda, which proclaim the joys of what we (Nicaragua) can do with “Poder Ciudadano” (Citizen power) right next to a massive picture of Daniel Ortega’s face. The fundamental irony is that many of Ortega’s programs is that they aim to recreate the spontaneous grassroots movement of the revolution, but from the top-down.
They ostensibly empower citizens to participate actively in their own communities through Centro de Poder Ciudadano (CPC - Center of Citizen Power) buildings and organizations. These local chapters of CPCs then elect a council that manages government programs for the community. These include the Programa Hambre Cero (Zero Hunger Program), Programa Usura Cero (I might have the name on this one slightly off, it might be Programa Interés Cero – Zero Usury Program/Zero Interest Program), and probably a few others I forgot. These are, respectively, food security and micro-loan programs. (Please note that I’m talking about the government’s program, NOT an NGO!)

An amigo we made - facilitated by my host-father and this guy's love for Rum Plata
Programa Hambre Cero is a reissue of a 1980s era program that is continued today by ex-Sandinistas in NGO form by CIPRES. While CIPRES has been working on this program since 1990, it was not until the new Sandinista government in 2008 that the government restarted the program. Both CIPRES and the government programs of new and old give seeds, a cow, pig, five chickens, biogas digester, building materials for the animal pens, sometimes a water system or other technology, and agricultural training to poor, rural peasants with the condition that they need to pay back 20% of the value to a community-managed maintenance fund. They also need to annually store a portion of their crop seeds in a “seed bank” to ensure that they have enough for the next season – they can’t sell them. The goal is total food security – meaning that no matter what happens to the prices of food on the market, they will always have enough to eat. What do the critics say? There are a number of arguments I’ve heard: 1) This is not a sustainable solution – the government can’t just give people “things.” 2) What happens when there is a crisis in the family, such as an illness. They sell the animals, and now are back to square one. 3) This does nothing to alleviate poverty, just hunger, which is a result of their poverty (“Band-aid” solution).
Programa Usura Cero is, I believe, also a reissue of a 1980s program that has also been continued with similar principles in NGO form by the plethora of NGOs doing MFI, including – but certainly not limited to – FEDICAMP and La Fundación Masaya Contra La Pobreza, two NGOs I visited and posted pictures of two weeks ago. I don’t have quite as much information on this program, but from what I’ve heard it’s just what it sounds – micro-loans with zero (or extremly low – not sure) interest. It’s problems are the same as any MFI program, but that’s another topic altogether.
The catch? Partisan politics. This is one of the biggest criticisms of Ortega. The CPC, a FSLN organization through and through, manages the distribution of both of these programs and others, and non-FSLN members cannot participate in the programs. Poder Ciudadano or Poder Sandinista? As the representative from the Coordinadora Civil (a network of NGOs – will post more later) mentioned to me yesterday, ALL people have the consitutional right to programs like these. Not just your own political party.
However, the biggest argument against any program is, and always should be, the recipients themselves. The results, as gathered by IPADE – a local pro-democracy NGO I’m hoping to meet with, and published in El Nuevo Diario, a local paper say that Programa Hambre Cero is only seen positively by 4.1% of the people, and the CPC organizational strategy by only 1.8%.

One of the many "gigantes", or 10' tall costumes that street performers at the celebration dance in. Apparently typical of Leon.
Health and education increases on the other hand? 30.8% popularity. The people speak clearer than any development theorist. But still, that’s only a third of the population. I can’t extrapolate too much why so many do not see Ortega’s programs as good in health and education, but I’d venture a guess that, aside from the super-rich who don’t care, many must see his programs as too little, mismanaged, or something else similar.
As for Ortega’s power base, it hasn’t bumped up one percent since his inauguration. I’m not sure where it is now, but he only won with 35% of the vote in a strange and corrupt pacto (pact) with the opposing Liberal party. He is also widely ridiculed for wanting to amend the constitution so that he can run for another term – part of his “soft dictatorship” reputation.
Thus this “Danielismo” is a far cry from the Sandinismo of old- of the 1980s. So great is the difference in the interpretation and practice of Sandinismo that out of the junta counsel of nine leaders that shared the executive power during the Sandinista government of the 1980s, only one remains by Daniel Ortega’s side (Ortega was one of the nine).
There are a number of other political parties that will compete against FSLN, but talking with people here reveals that for most, voting is merely a choice of the lesser of the evils. Corruption and mismanagement plague both major parties, the FSLN and the PLC (Constitutional Liberal Party).

Child beggars on the way to work the celebration. "Señor, dame un peso" they say. We gave them each a few pesos for posing for a couple of pictures.
Putting it all together, you have a simultaneously highly partisan and politically disillusioned populace. The government is more concerned with getting votes than making long-term change – thus they aim programs like Hambre Cero and Usura Cero at the poorest segments of the country, likely as a way to “win over” their votes. This is logical – there is no reason a poor person would dislike recieving the benefits of Hambre and Usura Cero but at the same time, are they really developing the country in the long-term?
These ostensibly “good” social programs attempt to force a grassroots civil society – a kind of NGO, just without the “Not” part. Can they really work? Given the public opinion, I’d say they haven’t stood up to the test. However, with these programs forming the backdrop for the work of NGOs today, it’s important to understand and learn from what’s not working. I’d venture a conclusion: the people are tired of poverty. They know that government services like Hambre Cero and Usura Cero aren’t making unemployment go away. Similarly, they know that their kids aren’t going to be any better off if public schools continue to starve to death (60:1 teacher ratio, incredibly poor teacher salaries, and general lack of resources) and people are laying two to a bed dying in public clinics (anecdote).
What can an NGO learn from this?
Maybe the biggest service is no service at all. (Unless you’re actually improving the system that is.)

Elbow to elbow with the FSLN
As for the 30th Anniversary Celebration – 80,000 people from all over the country came to revel in the festivitites and listen to Ortega’s propaganda. Many commentators noted that, though the number is clearly unknown, it is a broad suspicion that many people are practically forced to go to keep their job. My host-father is a prime example – his Sandinista boss would not be too happy if he did not show up. Thus we went together so I could see the event as well, me toting my $500 D40 camera there in a makeshift rice sack so that it would be inconspicuous and less likely to be stolen. (It’s important to put in perspective that my camera is nearly a year’s salary for a Nicaraguan.) This is not at all to say that the majority of those who were there were probably genuine supporters. Similarly, many who I met (Nicaraguans + Rum Plata means making friends is easy) said they were there, shouting “VIVA SANDINO!” for the spirit of the revolution, celebrating what Sandinismo was, and tuning out Ortega’s efforts to use it as a political tool.

President Daniel Ortega himself. The jostling through the crowd to capture this photo cost me my cellphone and electronic dictionary to a pickpocket. Asi es la vida. Here he is though, rhetoric, crazy first lady and all. 200mm zoom lenses come in handy.

The fireworks over the obelisk mark the end of the celebration.